365 DAYS OF STYLE: DAY 6

DAY 6: BACK TO BASICS. What is more versatile than a t-shirt? Ladies, am I right? You can toss it on with a pair of jeans or a skirt to alter it's mood. And fellas, what looks better under a blazer with jeans or with cargo shorts? My favorite t-shirts are from James Perse. Your choice of the V-neck or round neck, and your choice of the comfy boyfriend fit or body hugging. Stock up on cotton tees in varieties of colors, they are a good go-to piece for those lazy fashion days that we all will be going through this year! It's better to be prepared!

THE MEN'S STYLE COMMANDMENTS

Here are several style tips that will help you earn the "best dressed" status symbol. There are some of the "commandments" for men's fashion to achieve this look:

1. Honor thy tailor. According to GQ, even the best suits need altering. In men's fashion this is probably the most important detail that is not always adhered to. Pants need to be shortened, jackets need to be brought in, sleeves need to be narrowed (yes, you can ask your tailor to slim down your sleeves), and buttons need to be realigned with buttonholes (most guys' shoulders aren't entirely even, meaning your jacket often sits a bit askew).

If you're going to buy off the rack, you should always buy your correct size, then have a tailor customize it to your body. GQ says that the chances are you're wearing your suit a size too large. Its shoulders should hug your shoulders (not jut out past them). Also, have your tailor size the sleeves so they stop at the hinge of your wrist (not halfway down your thumb) and to size the pants so they break once (not gather in a baggy mess at your heels). Having your tailor properly fit your suit is the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed.

Custom tailored suits and even dress shirts are another option. Custom tailoring means that everything will fit right - and if you need to have a lot of alterations done on ready-made clothes, it may be an economical alternative.

2. Thou shalt learn when to cuff 'em. If you're wearing a trim, modern suit with flat-front pants—the kind often shown in men's fashion magazines—you should not cuff your pants. However, if you're a guy who likes a classic suit with a single pleat, go for a cuff—but not more than one and a half inches deep.

3. Thou shalt match your socks with your suit. Another must in men's fashion. When choosing socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you're wearing a navy suit with black shoes, reach for navy socks. And when wearing a light suit, make sure the socks are darker than the suit but a shade or so lighter than the shoes.

4. Thou shalt not wear a tie that is too slim. Unless you're a hard-core men's fashion guy who favors a superskinny tie, stick with one that measures about three inches at its widest point. It will be narrower than traditional ties, but not by too much. Tie one on and you'll look modern and sophisticated. We assume that's the look you want to achieve!

5. Remember thy undershirt. This one's an interesting and tricky men's fashion tip. If you're wearing a conventional white broadcloth dress shirt (which means it's fairly see-through), you have two options: Skip the undershirt and you'll look clean and stylish. Or, if you're a hairy guy who perspires a lot and you feel safer in an undershirt, wear a crewneck. The lines of a V-neck or tank top will be visible beneath your shirt and tie and you'll look cheesy. GQ suggest that if you prefer a V-neck or tank top, you might consider other dress shirts. Go for ones with checks or stripes, which make an undershirt less visible. Or opt for hardier fabrics, like an oxford cloth, which make undershirts all but invisible.

6. Thou shalt put your wallet on a diet. Your wallet should not be as fat as a burrito. In fact, GQ says that you should get rid of your wallet and you should trash all the receipts, video cards, that's stuffed into it. Buy an elegant, slim leather credit card holder and stock it with your essential cards. Then, fold your cash in a money clip. All that other nonsense can go in your desk drawer. You don't need it.

7. Thou shalt wear brown shoes—with nearly everything. Black dress shoes are easy—they're understated and tasteful. In men's fashion, the GQ experts say that brown dress shoes up the style factor. People notice them. They go best with gray, khaki, or navy. Dark brown shoes are easier to pull off than light brown ones.

Other men's fashion tips worth noting are: • Buy a two-button suit. It will give you a slimmer, more streamlined look, and it will better show off your shirt and tie. According to the fashion experts, the days of three-button dominance are over.

• Put toe taps on your leather-soled dress shoes. They will significantly increase the shoes' life span.

• If you're going to own one sweater, make it a charcoal gray v-neck. It goes perfectly with a dark suit in fall or winter and with jeans or cords in spring.

• A black J.M. Weston belt works with khakis, jeans, suits, everything. It is the one belt every man should own.

• A dark, slim tie will instantly give any ensemble a younger, cooler feel. And unlike wider ties, it looks as good with a jean jacket as with a suit jacket.

• And, the last men's fashion tip is: Invest in a classic one- or two-button tuxedo with peak or notch lapels. It makes no sense (stylistically or fiscally) to rent a tuxedo each time you attend a black-tie event.

MALE STYLE MANIFESTO

When people in men's fashion talk about change, they usually talk about little things. Fits, fabrics, finishes — you know, little things that, depending on whether you are familiar with the oeuvre of Martin Margiela, may or may not matter to you all that much. But the kind of change we're talking about here, it's something different. Because in case you haven't noticed, the world as we know it is ending — politically, culturally, and, oh yes, economically — and a new one is aborning. One that demands the kind of ballsy style that was familiar to our grandfathers but lost for a generation; one that calls for renewed efforts to make a statement and get the details just right; one that requires that we dress every day as if we were going to get hired or fired or handpicked from obscurity to become a vice-presidential candidate, because, hell, that's just the kind of world we're living in now.

Fashion has always been a state of mind — an attitude that expresses itself in the details of how a man gets dressed — and with the ground shifting daily, it's time for a change of mind. It's time to embrace a new ideal, a new approach to dressing, and a few guidelines (nine of 'em) that will deliver us from the wilderness, our senses of self and style stronger than ever. Let's get started.

FASHION COMMANDMENTS:

1: THOU SHALL SUIT YOURSELF.

The suit's got to fit. You'd think that a lot of men would know this, but judging by how a lot of American men choose to wear their suits, you'd be wrong. Quick test: The jacket should sit close enough on the body that you can just barely slide your hand inside beneath the breast pocket. If you can slide in a fist, it's at least a size too big.

2: WHEN IN DOUBT DOUBLE TAKE.

Respect the tie. Tuck in the shirt. Button the jacket. Get it right, all the time, every day, and for chrissakes, look in the mirror before you leave the house.

3: ALWAYS REMAIN SIMPLY STATED.

Make a statement with something. (Perhaps your socks.)

Something on your person should always make a statement, and that statement should preferably be "Go to hell." Say it with socks, with a tie, or with a great pair of pants, and say it often.

4: DEFINITELY GO OFF THE CUFF.
Mad Men killed the pocket square. Focus instead on showing just the right amount of shirt cuff (a half to one inch). This and a good watch or cuff links are all the flash you need.

5: KNOW THAT BLUE THE NEW HUE.

Navy blue, not black.We know black is easy, but navy blue is easier, more versatile, and looks better against every skin type. Plus, it doesn't look brown under fluorescent lights. (Black does.)

6: PROCEED WITH CAUTION.

Patterns: Mix. Don't match. It's only when you contrast the scale, texture, or color of different patterns that such combinations work.

7: MAKE THE COMMITMENT.

If you wear a tuxedo, wear a tuxedo.That means bow tie, cummerbund, and peak lapel. Everything else is negotiable, even the shoes.

8: THOU SHALL HAVE A LOOK THAT KILLS.

A great jacket lets you get away with anything. It elevates everything else you're wearing and opens all kinds of doors. Which is why you should always have one with you.

9: THERE IS ALWAYS ROOM FOR SLACKERS.

This is how long your trousers should be. The length of your trousers is everything. A half inch too long and you're instantly disreputable; a half inch too short and you're laughable. A one-inch kink in the front crease and you, my friend, are golden.

10: A NOSE KNOWS BEST.

When it comes to cologne, a mist is better than a musk. Identify your signature scent and know what works with your body's chemistry. Are you a woodsy? floral? clean? or spicy guy? Not sure what will work, next time you are at the department store, take your time to stop and smell the COLOGNES and ask for trials.  

BACK TO BASICS (MEN)

Listen up guys, this is dressing 101. We are going to cover the basics like what every man should have in his closet. You don't want to be caught off guard when certain situations arise be it a wedding, a first date or just a ballgame.

Men's wardrobe essentials are basics that every man should have in his closet. The advice provided gives every guy the essentials he needs for a practical and functional wardrobe that will carry him though many different occasions.

Where to Start?
According to the fashion world, when it comes to building a functional wardrobe, the first thing a guy must do is assess his lifestyle. Does he need to wear a suit every day? If so, then he will need several suits. Is he in a more casual setting at work? If so, then perhaps he needs more khakis or jeans than trousers or suits. No matter what his particular situation though, there are things every man should have in his wardrobe.

Men's Wardrobe Essentials

1. A suit (navy or gray)
- Even if you only need a suit a couple of times a year, you're glad to have it on hand when those occasions arise. Navy or gray suits are classic and neutral and can be dressed up or down. You can even wear the blazer with khakis or jeans. This is an item worth spending some money on.
2. Black shoes and belt
- These can be worn with khakis, jeans and your suit. This is an essential combo. Before buying brown, get black. I think you will find you get more mileage out of them, especially when attending more formal or evening functions.
3. White dress shirt (good for day and night occasions)
- White dress shirts look good on just about everybody. They look sharp and are versatile but should not to be worn as a casual shirt.
4. Solid tie - Solid ties are easy and versatile. If solid isn't your thing, try a classic diagonal stripe. Having several tie patterns on hand will ensure you are prepared for interviews, weddings and evening events.
5. Blue blazer - A blue blazer is good for all year round and easily coordinates with khakis and other items. If that bores you, try a tweed sport coat but also keep in mind that tweed is really only useful in fall and winter. Either way a blazer or tweed sport coat holds a look together.
6. Khakis and jeans
- No explanation necessary here. Jeans are a staple of the American wardrobe. Khakis are the same.
7. Overcoat
- An overcoat doesn't necessarily mean a long coat. It also means 3/4-length or car coat length. This item really finishes an outfit and can be worn with everything including jeans. And everyone needs a coat in winter, right? Well, maybe not if you live in places like Phoenix or San Diego.
8. Briefcase
- A briefcase does not necessarily mean a hard case. It can be soft, or messenger bag style. In a man is has to carry files and other documents, this is an essential.
9. Athletic wear
- Even for non-athletic types, athletic wear is great for those lazy Sundays and dashes to the convenience store at wee hours of the morning.
10. Casual shirt - A casual shirt such as a polo or button down is a must have to wear with jeans or other casual pants.
11. Deconstructed suit - A deconstructed suit is great because it has a relaxed look but is pulled together. Also, the pants and blazer can be worn separately)

A word of advice: start simple and expand according to lifestyle. Classics don't mean boring.

Bargains Shopping Tips
There is only one thing to say - buy on sale! After Christmas or season’s end sales are best. But don't buy something just because it is on sale or is a great deal. It should be something you would want to wear anyway and coordinates with your wardrobe. Also, if you find something on sale that may not have a perfect fit, don't be shy about taking it to a tailor. Buy comfortable clothes that make you feel confident and fit your style.

STYLIST MUST HAVE ITEMS FOR MEN S/S 2010

Thankfully men's fashion styles don't change as often as women's, but there are details one must still pay attention to. I will point you in the right direction when putting your look together as well as highlight fashion shows and profile designers so you always feel you're in the know. Every spring season I have my "top picks" for certain items such as jackets, shirts, shorts, and much more. I'm sure there is something in at least one of my lists that you can't live without.

1.THE JEAN-IUS.

A jean like the Diesel 'Zathan 71S' which has a dark wash and slight abrasions at the knees and pocket is a wardrobe necessity. Not only do you want a jean that shows off your assets, but one in a dark wash is a very current look. For a complete list of jeans, see my Top 8 Premium Denim Jeans for Men or for the budget minded, my top picks in Less Expensive Jeans for Men.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. GET GRAPHIC

I love graphic tees and am glad to see they are as big as ever in the spring collections. Besides, I have stacks of them, which equates to quite an investment. And like most guys, I'm very picky about what kind of graphic is on my tee. See my Top 8 Men's Summer T-Shirts.

3. BUTTONED UP. 
A button-up that is perhaps more fitted and/or has a nice pattern is a stylish alternative to the plain dress shirt. They are perfect worn with jeans alone or under a blazer. Take a look at my Top 6 Men's Summer Shirts or my Top 6 Modern and Stylish Men's Sport Shirts. 

4. POLO CLUB.
I love polo shirts. They are easy to wear and can be classic yet modern at the same time. They can be worn to the office under a sport jacket or with shorts on the weekend. Top 6 Men's Polos.

5. GET SNEAKY.
The retro sneaker is bigger than ever. I personally love the Asics Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 which was introduced in 1966. These were the first shoes with the famous tiger stripes and worn at the Mexico Olympic Games in 1968. If you don't like these, there are many Cool Retro Styles in Men's Sneakers.

6. FREQUENT FLYERS.

Aviator sunglasses are having quite the comeback. At first I wasn't sure about them but when designers like Ray Ban re-imagined the standard aviator, I had a change of heart. Whether a pair like this or some other, they are definitely a must have. See my Top Picks in Men's Sunglasses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. GET BELTED.

Brown woven belts are essential for Spring/Summer 2010. Try to incorporate the trendy look with a fun belt buckle. Another chic pulled together belt is white. I know, don't gasp too soon, it can look divine paired with a nice grey slack or a dark denim.