Perennial fashion week favourite Heni was back with another conceptual range this season. Inspired by a vision of "Africans uniting under a colonialist inspired collection fed by the continent's positive energy", it had a raw, natural look steeped in historical references and archetypes. The combination of silky satins and roughly woven cottons spoke to the idea of dressing ones best even in a tough environment.
The garments were almost all various shades of white, cream, beige and ivory which gave them an aged feel - as though a life's worth of stains and dirt could never be entirely erased. White and blue striped cotton "hails the triumphant return of the intrepid voyager", explained Heni. Small sailor collar details on waistbands and necklines and flat metal buttons reinforced the 'travelling uniform' theme.
Touches of red in the large accessories and also hidden in boldly striped linings provided the only bright spots of colour, and "run a patriotic thread throughout the designs, uniting the collection" stated the designer.
Cottons patterned in herringbone, checks and a variety of stripes were mixed and matched with abandon and differing lengths, asymmetrical detailing and multiple layers of crisp cotton and fluid chiffons made for an eclectic look. The brands logo was printed onto fabrics and in some cases onto finished garments in repeating or overlapping patterns seemingly placed at random and then embellished further with over-stitching or embroidery threads.
Ruffled tiers of satin, lace edgings, pillbox hats, bonnets and discrete beading perfectly invoked the feeling of unpacking an old ladies suit-case left to yellow under a bed for decades.
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