LOS ANGELES FASHION WEEK: GET TO KNOW THESE DESIGNERS

Maxine Dillon RTW Spring 2010
Photo By Todd Williamson

Launch Slideshow 4 images

Corey Lynn Calter RTW Spring 2010
Photo By: Courtesy Photo

Launch Slideshow 4 images

Fremont RTW Spring 2010
Photo By: Stefanie Keenan

Launch Slideshow 4 images

Eduardo Lucero RTW Spring 2010
Photo By: Donato Sardella

Check back daily for the latest collections from L.A. Fashion Week.

Newest collections: Leyendecker, Corey Lynn Calter, Rory Beca, MG Black Label

Corey Lynn Calter: The designer presented a whimsical collection that mixed floral-print minidresses with bright striped and solid separates.

David Alexander: David Alexander should stick to designing dresses for Hollywood action starlets such as Megan Fox.

Division E: Division E was shown alongside Raw 7, Urban Republic and Tavik Swimwear, all of which embody the Los Angeles lifestyle.

Eduardo Lucero: Eduardo Lucero’s Latin influence shone elegantly in an all-black collection of embellished feminine dresses.

Femme Noir by Phong Hong: Phong Hong showed a pretty collection of rose-colored silk chiffon cocktail dresses that had a good girl versus bad girl vibe.

Fernanda Carneiro: Known for her seaming and colorblocking, Fernanda Carneiro showed a feminine and flirty collection of short day-to-evening dresses.

Fremont: A playful collection of slim men’s linen shorts suits and silk rompers, capris and printed frocks for women.

Future Heretics: Street-smart denim and leathers were inspired by post-apocalyptic surfers with a penchant for high-waisted skirts, distressed trenches and biker leggings.

Kevan Hall: Kevan Hall showed a red carpet-worthy lineup of silk and satin gowns in a soft sherbet palette.

Krys 'N' Jack: Craftsmanship and carpentry were behind Krysta Henry and Jacquetta O’Dell’s fun, inventive, but not particularly wearable collection.

Lauren Elaine Black Label: Lauren Elaine imagined Empress Josephine on a journey to India with a trunk full of Empire-waist tea and cocktail dresses.

Leyendecker: Jessica Moss and Lisa Guajardo showed a tribal tribute with loose, easy pieces accentuated with fringing, knots, beads and cutouts.

Louver by Louis Verdad: With a nautical undertone in a palette of cream, navy and gold, Louver by Louis Verdad’s collection was about empowering the female form.

Maxine Dillon: New England classics intersected with California cool in a concise collection which combined preppy pieces with flirty feather-print tops and jumpers.

MartinMartin: Diane Moss-Martin and Eric Martin’s Goth-inspired collection featured loosely tucked and tailored separates that had a “Night of the Living Dead” aura.

MG Black Label: Erik Hart cut sharply tailored classics with a post-industrial edge, as seen in wax-coated trenches and wool moto jackets.

Mike Vensel: What would have been another basic collection of silk and cotton jersey dresses, T-shirts and miniskirts was elevated by black feather embellishments.

Odilon: Stacey Clark created a cohesive collection of archeology- and military-inspired separates and body-conscious dresses

Raw 7: Raw 7 was shown alongside Division E, Urban Republic and Tavik Swimwear, all of which embody the Los Angeles lifestyle.


Rory Beca: Rory Edelman presented a youthful day-to-night wardrobe, which transitioned from chambray vests and rompers to metallic jacquard tanks and pink organza miniskirts.

Skingraft: Designers Jonny Cota and Katie Kay refined their signature leather armor motif to create a lineup of body-conscious vests, jackets and pants.

Sue Wong: Sue Wong’s collection was an ode to Twenties art nouveau with an expected but pleasant lineup of eclectic bohemian flapper gowns.

Tavik Swimwear: The edgy swimwear line shared the runway with fellow Los Angeles lifestyle brands Division E, Raw 7 and Urban Republic.

Urban Republic: The line was shown alongside Raw 7, Division E and Tavik Swimwear, all of which embody the Los Angeles lifestyle.

Ximena Valero: Ximena Valero’s artful draping and twisting transformed jewel-toned jersey into sinuous, sexy gowns and chic jumpsuits.

(Source: WWD)

SKINGRAFT TAKES FLIGHT at LA FASHION WEEK (S/S 2010)

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HIDE AND SEEK: Skingraft's Jonny Cota and Katy Kay inside their downtown L.A. boutique. All photos courtesy of Skingraft.

Second Skin

Leather-heavy L.A. label Skingraft rolls out its sleek hides at Downtown L.A. Fashion Week.

The ever-amorphous L.A. Fashion Week officially kicked off this past weekend, and now we’re in for three weeks (you heard me) of soirées and shows – half of which, truth be told, I’d love to take a pass on.

But hovering above the compost pile of subpar labels staging events this season are a few sparkling gems. One of which is downtown L.A.’s Skingraft, a darkly romantic, leather-centric collection that’s been hovering below the fashion radar since launching in 2005.

Founded by Jonny Cota and Cassidy Haley, two ex-circus performers (stilt walkers, to be exact), the label began as a one-of-a-kind clothier, turning out specialty leather pieces for sideshow and circus performers and a handful of hide-loving celebs including Juliette Lewis, Marilyn Manson and Fergie.

Haley eventually exited the company, which had added a third partner, former professional tribal belly dancer Katy Kay (sideshow pedigree was apparently required). Shortly thereafter, Cota and Kay started dreaming up their first ready-to-wear collection.

“We had been making stilt pants and crazy costumes and headpieces for circus troupes,” says Cota, who used to perform with gothy circus troupes El Circo and Lucent Dossier. “But the demand for making it more accessible kept growing.”

The brand’s biker-tinged brand of gothic—laced with fetish details—won’t always be at the height of fashion, but thanks to leather-heavy designers such as Rick Owens and Ann Demeulemeester, not to mention a major pendulum swing to a Road Warrior-style toughness in fashion, the slightly sinister look is definitely having a moment.

And Skingraft does it very well, from harnessing fashion-forward silhouettes to pristinely finishing each garment.

Sleek leather jackets are at the heart of the collection—a staple the designers twist and tweak in numerous ways. There’s a Victorian-style fitted body with blousey sleeves, cropped-and-studded models, sporty styles with stretchy fabric on the sides and rocker looks with lace-up details. Core prices range from $120 for a collared men's shirt to around $500 for a signature leather jacket.

“There are lots of nods to classic shapes,” says Cota, who, with Kay, still runs a custom wedding dress business (of the crimson leather-Marilyn Manson ilk). “It’s always a combo of classic imagery and something very now.”

The brand, which bowed its own downtown L.A. boutique (sharing a space with like-minded L.A. label, Elmer Ave.) in April, will be flaunting its wares tomorrow night for the second consecutive L.A. Fashion Week, this time as part of Downtown Fashion Week’s lineup at the MOCA Geffen Contemporary museum. The invite-only runway show will kick off, for the second time, with a performance by an experimental dance troupe.

“MOCA felt like the most respectable place that we could show in L.A.,” says Cota, who perceives the rocky, “tough” local fashion scene as an irresistible opportunity to stand out. And at the end of the day, “We have a lot of L.A. pride.” Source: By Emili Vesilind for Soft Style LA.

Skingraft, 125 West 4th St. #102, Los Angeles, 213-626-2662